There are two words that spring to mind after my first trip to the Kimberley… colour and texture. There has been no shortage of breathtaking scenery.
The sun rising in a pastel sky, rich golden tones warming up the red, brown and green landscape.
Rugged towering cliffs of rust-tinged sandstone, contrasting with cobalt skies and vibrant green water.
Pale golden sand, rippled by the ocean and littered with footprints of tiny crabs, turtles, dingoes, and even a crocodile.
Red dirt, tinting my feet that Kimberley hue.
Green melaleuca leaves casting shadows in the bright sunlight.
The day’s journey into night, when the sky moves from burnished copper through purple to navy before turning black, scattered with a sea of tiny white stars.
The dining experiences at Berkeley River Lodge, in the remote north-eastern corner of the Kimberley, have also added their own bit of colour and texture to this trip.
But what stands out the most about executive chef Christian Iacovella’s cooking is flavour.
The morning starts with a beautiful selection of fresh fruit, yoghurt pots topped with berries or fruit compote, freshly baked bread, croissants and pastries, and a fantastic homemade granola that’s packed with dried baby figs and nuts.
You can build your own hot breakfast from the usual suspects, including baked beans which, on first look I’d swear were Heinz, but after tasting the smoky umami sauce, I know are house-made. Each morning features a different special order, too. A lovely frittata filled with ricotta and tomato sets me up for a fun morning of fishing.
Our group is ravenous after an energetic morning hiking, where we discover Aboriginal rock art and tranquil waterholes. For lunch we order small plates to share. Tuna ceviche, cured in a zingy tiger’s milk dressing and topped with a piquant salad of slivered onion, coriander and chilli is a winning combination.
Alongside it is a baby heirloom beetroot salad I could gladly eat every day. Tender, sweet cubes of beetroot sit on a bundle of leaves and herbs, scattered with crumbled goat’s cheese and walnuts, wafer-thin radish slices and just the right amount of dressing to bring the dish together.
Tender strips of calamari, crispy falafel, and fries sprinkled with lemon myrtle salt complete the feast.
Do I need a second course? Probably not. But chef Christian hails from Napoli, and who can resist Shark Bay crab linguine cooked by a real Italian? It’s generous with sweet crabmeat, tomatoes and herbs. And it has obviously had an Italian hand adding some of the pasta water to the pan, with the glossy, buttery emulsion providing just the right amount of cling to the tangle of linguine.
There’s a treat in store at the end of our sundowner beach drive. Guides Josh and Reagan produce an esky filled with champagne, beers and soft drinks, which we sip on the sand as the sun sets, tucking into a charcuterie board filled with buttery brie, tangy cheddar and creamy blue cheese, as well as a selection of salamis, crackers and perfectly ripe fruit.
This place is so remote everything comes in by barge or air (as do the guests — there are no roads into Berkeley River Lodge so a charter-plane transfer from Darwin is included in the price) which makes the variety, quality and freshness of the food all that more impressive.
Talking of inclusions, as well as all activities and excursions, all food and beverages are covered in the cost of the five-night luxury villa experience. The evening dining offerings add to the wow factor.
Our first dinner is the five-course Down to Earth degustation. The menu touts an exploration of land-based flavours and dishes shaped by texture, warmth and sense of place.
To start, a silky-smooth duck rillette and black polenta crisp, the richness of the pate tempered with a dainty slice of tart grape.
I can’t stop thinking about the next course — vitello tonnato — it’s the dish of the trip. Wafer-thin slices of tender veal, delicate poached pear and crispy Jerusalem artichokes napped with the creamy savoury sauce — it’s texture and flavour perfection.
Spears of asparagus topped with miso hollandaise and toasted hazelnut follow.
A smoky and rosy-pink wagyu sirloin with crispy kale, charred shallot and native pepperberry jus make a delicious main, but the star of the show is the accompanying velvety celeriac puree.
The dessert is just as smooth. Namelaka is a creamy chocolate mousse and, at first, I see no evidence of it on the plate. Underneath shards of milk chocolate I find a tonka foam sprinkled with chopped cashews and drizzled with salted caramel — all of which pair beautifully. But as I dig deeper the namelaka is revealed, adding another dimension and a layer of flavour that perfects the dish. This namelaka — the Japanese term for a creamy or smooth texture — lives up to its name.
Dinner is paired with a selection of Howard Park wines. I’m not much of a white or rosé drinker but I try a mouthful with each of the first two courses. I’m happier with a glass of red, and I’m hoping to find the third and fourth-course pairings — Flint Rock pinot noir and Leston cabernet sauvignon — in my local bottle shop.
The restaurant staff are warm and attentive. So much so that the following evening — a three-course Italian feast with paired wines — our waitress Emily appears at my side and, using my name without a reminder, tells me the first wine is white but she had noticed last night I prefer red, and suggests an alternative for me. Now that’s impressive.
And it’s like this for the whole stay. Front-of-house staff greet guests by name, remembering preferences, whether it be dietary requirements, morning coffee orders, pre-dinner cocktails, or who prefers still or sparkling water.
But back to that Italian feast, which begins at breakfast. We are perusing the buffet and notice a large baking tray behind the counter, filled to the brim with bubbling dough that’s studded with rosemary and salt.
Christian tells us he’s been fermenting it for three days and it will be ready tonight.
A flawless focaccia served with flavour-packed tomato oil is a fitting start to his “Nonna Approved” menu.
Creamy burrata, paper-thin wagyu bresaola, king oyster mushrooms and marinated zucchini provide another flavour and texture bomb.
I was hoping for more of that crab linguine but as I tuck into feather-light ricotta gnocchi with rich osso buco ragu, creamy pecorino fondue and a salty shard of guanciale, I’m glad to experience another string to Christian’s bow. The paired Bera Barbera d’Asti compliments it well.
I think Nonna would approve of dessert, a blistered and burnished cannoli filled with chocolate hazelnut cream.
Our group of media are only here for three nights, unlike lucky “real” guests who will be here for five. But I don’t feel cheated because our final dining experience knocks it out of the park.
After an afternoon spent lounging by the pool, looking out on the dramatic Kimberley coastline, I enjoy a relaxing in-room massage, then more of the panoramic view with feet up on my veranda, and finally sink into my outdoor bath and soak up the peaceful surroundings. Bliss, upon bliss, upon bliss.
As if by magic (but in reality, no doubt a tireless afternoon effort made by the wonderful Berkeley River Lodge team) the resort’s sandy sunset spot has been turned into tonight’s dining venue, complete with cocktail bar, Argentine barbecue and a beautifully laid-out dining table.
The Barefoot Barbecue begins with cocktails, canapes and a captivating sunset.
Restaurant manager Tom suggests the Paloma. The addition of lemon myrtle puts a Kimberley twist on the refreshing cocktail, with a dash of Campari bringing in an Italian note. A mouthful of tuna tataki with citrus and strawberry wakes up the palette. Next comes a trio of canapes — corn rib with smoked scamorza, prawn taco with avocado cream, and smoked pumpkin puree on crackers.
As the sky moves from golden to navy, we sit under fairy lights while Christian brings a magnificent barbecued rib eye to the table and carves it before us. Alongside the juicy seared steak, a vibrant romesco sauce, chargrilled caulilini, carrot and king oyster mushroom, and a leafy green salad, generously topped with pecorino. The accompanying bold plummy Barossa shiraz hits the right spot.
We finish with a tropical flavour — flambeed pineapple, macadamia crumble and coconut cream paired with D’Arenberg’s Mud Pie. The complex dessert viognier brings sweet, floral and spicy waves to complete the meal.
This holiday in the Kimberley is a multi-dimensional experience. There are outdoor adventures with breathtaking backdrops, well-thought-out accommodation that’s upscale yet unpretentious, and dining that’s refined as well as generous.
This is a truly unique experience, and there’s a final layer which makes this journey so special, and that’s the staff — a team of 22 people whose attention to detail and to each guest is remarkable.
From the moment we arrive, warmly welcomed with red carpet and champagne, to the morning of departure, waved off with bon voyage goodie bags filled with snacks for the journey home, we are treated like royalty, but also like family. You can’t ask for more than that.
fact file
Next year the Berkeley River Lodge’s season runs from May 1-August 31. Five-night stays are priced at $19,750 per couple in a one-bedroom villa which features a king-size bed, veranda with sea or river views and luxury outdoor bathroom. Bookings made before October 31, 2026 will receive $2000 off the cost of a villa. The all-inclusive experience includes return charter-flight transfers from Darwin, all meals, premium drinks, excursions and lodge activities.
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