Mogens says, Ama believer

The Danube River acts as a master storyteller that slowly reveals its treasures and weaves a rich tapestry of European traditions and history for those travelling its course.

Stunning scenery, medieval castles, quaint riverbank villages, and grand capital cities such as Bucharest, Belgrade, Budapest and Vienna lie around almost every bend.

My wife and I have just arrived in Romania to join AmaWaterways’ Gems of Southeast Europe: Festive Delights cruise on Europe’s biggest river ship, the AmaMagna.

We have travelled the upper reaches of the Danube before on a Budapest to Amsterdam cruise, but this time we’ll follow the Danube upstream from Romania to Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia and Hungary to see what stories this part of the Danube will reveal.

Bohemian Bucharest

After a late afternoon arrival we check into the Marmorosch, a boutique hotel in a beautifully restored former bank building conveniently located in a beautiful part of the old town where elegant restored buildings line narrow lively streets with lots of restaurants and interesting shops.

AmaWaterways recommended this hotel, and we are more than happy to begin our East European sojourn here.

After checking in, I head out to explore my new surroundings and clear my head after the long flight.

Being late November, it’s a tad cold but I’m well prepared, and it’s nice and refreshing to get some crisp, cool air in the lungs after being stuck in a metal tube for what seemed an eternity.

The last daylight has faded by now. Many of the grand old buildings are lit by floodlights and warm, inviting light spills out into the street from shops and restaurants.

It’s a lovely atmosphere but I’m feeling a bit weary after the long journey, so I head back to the Marmorosch for a well-deserved rest.

We spend the following morning exploring Bucharest and soon learn it’s a place of extreme contrasts.

Former communist leader Nicolae Ceausescu led the country with an iron fist until he was overthrown and executed during the Romanian Revolution in 1989, and his fingerprints are still everywhere.

Grand buildings such as the Palace of the Parliament and many other government and cultural buildings, grand squares, and vast boulevards were built to showcase his version of socialist power.

But it came at a cost. Ceausescu’s vision caused the destruction of significant parts of the city’s cultural heritage.

That said, Bucharest is a fascinating place to explore. Romania’s economy has grown at a strong pace since it joined the EU in 2007, and Bucharest is a city with a long-term vision to transform it into a modern, sustainable, and liveable city with walkable neighbourhoods where housing, workplaces and services coexist.

The magnificent AmaMagna

After a pleasant day exploring Bucharest, we join an AmaWaterways bus for a short journey south to the port of Giurgiu, where we catch our first glimpse of the AmaMagna.

It is a magnificent-looking vessel.

The AmaMagna is nearly twice the width of most traditional European river cruise ships so there is much more space.

It has 98 spacious state rooms ranging in size from 33sqm-66sqm, four dining venues, a fitness centre, a wellness studio with two massage rooms, a hairdresser, and a gift shop.

The tastefully decorated public spaces include a main lounge, two cosy libraries with faux fireplaces, and a small cinema.

The top sun deck is vast and includes a heated pool and spa, a pickleball court and a walking track, as well as plenty of upscale outdoor furniture, sun lounges and shade areas.

We are staying in stateroom No.212 on level two, and it is by far the biggest we have experienced on a European river cruise ship. At 33sqm, it is bigger than many hotel rooms we’ve stayed in, and it is very well appointed.

In the entrance hall (yes, there’s an entrance hall), there are two doors, one leading to a separate toilet, and the other into a spacious bathroom with a double vanity and double-size shower.

From the entrance hall, two French doors lead into the main room which includes a comfortable two-seater lounge, coffee tables, a writing desk, plenty of storage, and a double bed, plus an outside balcony.

Adventures on the lower Danube

We quickly slot into the river cruising life thanks to all the luxuries onboard.

The food, the service, and the onboard entertainment are exceptional.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served at the main dining room and at the alfresco dining room at the bow of the ship. Guests can book to have dinner at The Chef’s Table restaurant, which serves a degustation menu paired with wines; and at Jimmy’s Wine Bar, which serves family-style meals at long communal tables.

Before and after dinner, guests generally gather in the main lounge for pre or post-dinner cocktails and entertainment, which includes onboard musicians and local cultural performances.

AmaWaterways offers several included tours at each destination. There is something for everyone, and they are all hosted by expert local guides.

The tours include culinary experiences, wine tasting, and visits to museums and galleries. I particularly enjoy the bike tours because they allow me to explore a larger area and get a different perspective of the cities and villages we visit.

The Gems of Southeast Europe cruise lives up to its name, and reveals just as many fascinating stories and experiences as the more famous upper reaches of the Danube.

There are too many highlights to describe here, but here are a few of my personal favourites.

The best cruising experience was sailing through the Iron Gate gorge which forms a natural border between Romania and Serbia. It is considered the most scenic part of the lower Danube, and it didn’t disappoint.

Towering limestone cliffs flank both sides of this narrow part of the river, and along the way there are some particularly impressive sights such as the giant face of Dacian King Decebalus, which is carved into the cliff face on the Romanian side, and the Golubac Fortress which guards the western entrance to the Iron Gate gorge. The 14th-century Serbian-built fortress is one of the oldest and most important castles along the river, and it was never conquered despite many attempts throughout history.

Best tour experience goes to the Bulgarian port Vidin where I join a bike tour for a scenic ride through the charming city centre and a visit to the impressive Baba Vida fortress on the bank of the Danube. The fortress’ origins can be traced back to the first century AD when the Romans built a watchtower called Bononia on the remains of an ancient Thracian settlement. Baba Vida’s strategic location played an important role in the region’s development throughout its history.

I’ll give the best city award to Budapest for its stunning architecture and lively street scenes. It’s a place you can visit many times and always discover something new, and it certainly lives up to its nickname, Little Paris of the East. This time we discover the Vorosmarty Square Christmas Market which is buzzing with life as people mingle to sample Hungarian festive treats such as chimney cakes, gingerbread, and mulled wine, and browse the many wooden stalls selling Christmas ornaments and Hungarian arts and crafts.

About AmaWaterways

AmaWaterways may not be a familiar name to many Australian river cruisers, but it has been around since 2002.

Austrian Rudi Schreiner, considered by many to be the godfather of river cruising in Europe, co-founded the company with German Kristin Karst and Irish-born American Jimmy Murphy, and it has grown rapidly since then.

AmaWaterways officially launched its Australian office in Sydney in May 2024 following the conclusion of its longstanding partnership with APT, which had previously represented the brand in the Australian market with its Magnificent Europe itinerary sailing between Amsterdam and Budapest.

Steve Richards, managing director AU/NZ of AmaWaterways, says the company’s arrival in Australia and New Zealand has real historical roots, but establishing its own local presence and name in 2024 was the next step.

“We’re entering a new chapter after two decades of innovation. It’s so rewarding to be bringing more Australians and New Zealanders on to the rivers of Europe and beyond and welcoming them into the Ama family.”

+ Mogens Johansen was a guest of AmaWaterways. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication.

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To find out more about AmaWaterways itineraries visit amawaterways.au